August 2021 – Part 1

After a week in Den Helder we set off to explore some of the ports on the Ijselmeer on our way towards Amsterdam.

We stopped overnight at Medenmeer, only a small village but quite a peaceful location on this tree lined canal, and from there we headed to the Oosterhaven harbour at Medemblik. On our approach to this lovely town, we passed through two locks – the first we entered lifted us 4.5m and the second, another 1.5m – it’s just amazing how low some of the areas are in the Netherlands.

This rail bridge at the lock was built in 1925

During our stay in Medemblik we took our own walking tour of the area, which was very nice, and a separate excursion to Radboud castle, a mere ten minute walk from our boat as it sits right at the entrance to the various marinas. Despite being quite a small castle it was atmospheric and interesting. It was incredible to hear that this 13th century castle was built on wooden pilings driven into the rock still stands firmly in place.

Whilst we were there there was a falconry display going on in the grounds, and we met and spent some time chatting to the guy who looks after the rescued birds including a very majestic sea eagle.

Sea eagle

A little later as we were sat having a coffee, he crept over with the eagle and placed it just next to Nicki on the back of the bench she was sitting in – she was a bit shocked to say the least.

After that we talked to him about how, as a professional, he was not allowed to release his rescued birds back into the wild but instead used them to help children with learning disabilities. After a bit he decided to let me hold it. Definitely an awesome experience.

After all that excitement, we said goodbye to Medemblik and motored out into the Ijsselmeer (part of the reclaimed Zuiderzee) to our next port of call, Enkhuizen. The journey was almost perfect with very little swell, only light winds and clear skies.

However, it got a bit busy as we approached Enkhuizen with the waters fully populated by sail boats plus a selection of commercial ferries and cruisers. One of the old boats catering for the holiday trade must have left after us but it rapidly caught us up as we approached our destination, fortunately holding station behind us as by that time there were boats zipping in and out of a number of mooring locations and it did get a bit hairy.

We found the entrance to the harbour we needed to enter but had to go in quite slowly as there were quite a few boats coming out. We quickly found a spot to moor up at, and having sorted out the ropes a harbour masters launch (which was zipping around directing visiting boats to suitable moorings) pulled up alongside and asked us to move a bit closer to the entrance so that he could squeeze another boat in behind us.

Due to predicted bad weather we booked in for a week in this busy harbour, at times we also had as many as two boats rafting against us. Our first few nights were a bit unsettled to start with as yachts and commercials seem to enter and exit the port at speed during the night, and as an added bonus the Dromedar tower on the opposite side of us had bells that chime every fifteen minutes, even throughout the night.

Unfortunately one evening we had some VERY strong winds which eventually ripped the bimini so we had to dismantle it as the wind blew, no mean feat. It seems that Shensi will have to remain naked for the rest of the season.

On the Monday we visited the Zuiderzee Museum in Enkhuizen, an outdoor ‘living’ museum showcasing how people lived on the shores of the Zuiderzee before the Ijsselmeer Barrier Dam was erected and turned the former inland sea into the Ijsselmeer, in 1932. More than 140 historic buildings from around the former Zuiderzee area form a complete village, which gives you an idea of how people lived in those former times. You can even some craftsmen at work, eg blacksmith, fishermen making their nets, carpenters etc.

Most of the buildings have been relocated from different towns in and around the Zuiderzee area, sometimes moved intact as with the cheese house and in other cases, dismantled and reassembled on-site.

The history of the dam was explained and how it helped control flooding in the Netherlands. With the introduction of the dam the livelihood of the villagers was turned upside down as the salt water became fresh water.

Lamp in butchers shop
a walk in the park

There were so many interesting exhibits that we spent about five hours walking around and were pretty tired when we left. However, we still had the indoor museum to cover so settled across the road to look around there for a short while before returning for a much needed rest.

From Enkhuizen we moved on to Hoorn a day earlier than planned to catch good weather, this time travelling across the Markermeer. Once again the exit from the harbour at Enkhuizen was very busy with lots of activity until we were through the nearby sluis which we shared with a couple of old sail barges.

The journey itself was pretty good although approaching Hoorn was a bit worrying as we were not quite sure where we needed to go out what the mooring situation was going to be like. Still, straight away the harbour master was ready to direct us to raft alongside an old tug. Not a bad little short, close to the town and a lovely Jukianaparc (something which we noticed most of the towns possess) with off lead dog walking allowed.

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Historic ship moored at the harbour entrance